Long Stemmed Goblets

— by Ron Phillips

Taller, thinner long stemmed goblets than you ever imagined using steadyrests.

— Click here to download the following instructions in PDF format

Ron Phillips - Long Stemmed Goblets - New Mexico WoodturnersEQUIPMENT

  • Chuck
  • Drive center
  • Live Center w/ cones
  • Plastic (electrical) tape
  • Drill chuck and drill(s), 1⁄2 “ fits Oneway live center taper at tip.
  • Steady rest, 3 wheel
  • Extra homemade steady rest(s)
  • Hollowing tools
  • Spindle gouges and skews
  • Parting tool
  • Short tool rest for close up work
  • Sanding sticks and paper
  • Quick drying finish such as shellac, lacquer or wax
  • Variable speed lathe very desirable.
  • Disk sander and disks
  • Double sided tape or glue
  • Good lighting

 
WOOD SELECTION
Choose a hard, dense, non porous, straight grained wood such as maple, cherry, fruit woods, walnut, etc.
 
TURNING STEPS

  1. Between centers, turn a uniform diameter cylinder.  Turn a tenon on one end to fit your chuck and true up the other end.
  2. Mount this blank in the chuck and hold it true with the live tail center while tightening the chuck.
  3. Slide the tail stock out of your way and install the wheeled steadyrest back a few inches from the end.  Reset the tailstock to hold the blank absolutely true while you adjust and tighten the steadyrest wheels in place.
  4. Turn the outside profile of the goblet leaving a little extra wood at its base for strength.  Sand and finish the completed part of the goblet.
  5. Using drill chuck and drill mounted in tailstock, drill out the center of the goblet to the depth you measure for hollowing.
  6. Remove the tailstock, adjsut the tool rest and complete the hollowing to a thin walled vessel, sand and finish the interior.
  7. Reset the tailstock with live center equipped with a cone or cup.  Use a little plastic tape as a non maring serface between the live center and the goblet.  Adjust the cone or cup up to where it just “kisses” the rim of the goblet.  No applied pressure.  Tailstock is a stabilizer only and the goblet/cone union will probably slip a little while turning.
  8. Adjust the tool rest and complete turning the lower part of the goblet down to the start of the stem.  Sand and finish.
  9. Work just a couple of inches at a time, turning the stem to finished thickness.  Sand and finish as you go.
  10. Slide and reset the steadyrest towards the headstock a few inches at a time.  Then continue turning the stem little by little.
  11. When you have progressed several inches and the stem flexes or whips too much to allow careful turning, install the homemade steady rest up fairly close to where you are turning to dampen the wobbling.  As you move towards the base adjust both steady rests as needed.
  12. When close to the base and well supported by the chuck the wheeled steady rest can be removed to get it out of your way.  Keep the homemade rest in place for safety's sake.
  13. Finish contouring the base as desired, sand and finish.
  14. Part off and finish the bottom.

 
Mount the goblet on a separately turned or crafted base to provide weight and stability to the goblet.  I
suggest using double sided tape or an easily removed adhesive to secure the goblet to the base.  Perhaps
hot melt would work well.
 
Repairs.

  1. 1. Broken stems can be fixed by cutting the broken ends on a matching steep diagonal, then clamped and glued together.  Carefully scrape and sand the repair to blend with original contour.
  2. Refinishing repairs or adding additional coats of finish to the entire turning is probably best done by spray.

 
 
 MOST IMPORTANT OF ALL, RELAX!!  DON'T TRY TO DO IT ALL IN A SINGLE SESSION.  A COUPLE OF HOURS OR LESS AT A TIME IS ENOUGH TO HELP RETAIN YOUR SANITY AND KEEP THE KINKS OUT OF YOUR BACK AND NECK.